Yes, you absolutely can use a table saw as a jointer, especially for smaller projects or when a dedicated jointer is not available. This process primarily involves creating a specialized setup, often called a table saw jointer jig, to guide the wood against the spinning blade at a perfect 90-degree angle, allowing for edge jointing with a table saw.
Why Use a Table Saw for Jointing?
Many woodworkers start with just a table saw. A jointer is a specialized tool that creates perfectly flat faces and square edges on lumber. If you do not own one, you need a way to square up your rough-sawn boards. Using table saw as a jointer becomes a necessary skill.
A table saw is good at cutting straight lines across the grain (crosscutting) or with the grain (ripping). By adding a jig, you can force the wood to interact with the blade in a controlled way, similar to how a real jointer works. This method is sometimes called improvised table saw jointer work.
It is important to note that this technique will never fully replace a high-quality, full-sized jointer. A true jointer has a spinning cutter head that removes material evenly across the width of the board. When making a jointer from a table saw, you are relying on a fence and a jig to achieve flatness and squareness, which takes more care and setup time.
Safety First: Jointing on a Table Saw
Because you are trying to force wood against the blade in an unconventional way, safety is the number one concern when table saw jointer setup. Kickback is a serious danger here. Always follow these basic rules:
- Wear safety glasses and hearing protection.
- Never allow your fingers to get close to the blade guard or the spinning blade.
- Use push sticks or push blocks at all times.
- Ensure the jig is firmly secured to the table.
- Use a sharp, full-kerf blade, preferably one designed for ripping.
Building Your Table Saw Jointer Jig
The key to using table saw as a jointer is the jig. This fixture ensures the wood stays flat against the table surface and perfectly perpendicular to the blade. You are essentially building a small fence system that slides across the table top.
Jig Components and Materials
You will need basic woodworking supplies to build this. Keep the wood you use for the jig flat and stable.
| Component | Material Suggestion | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Base Plate | 3/4 inch Plywood or MDF | Sits flat on the table saw surface. |
| Reference Fence (The Guide) | Straight edge hardwood (Maple or Oak) | The piece that contacts the wood being jointed. |
| Securing Mechanism | Clamps or Bolts/T-nuts | Locks the jig securely to the table. |
| Depth Gauge (Optional) | Small block of wood | Helps control how much wood is removed. |
Step-by-Step Jig Construction
The goal is to make a long fence that rides against the existing table saw fence, ensuring the guide fence is perfectly parallel to the blade.
- Prepare the Base Plate: Cut a piece of plywood larger than your desired sled size. This base needs to slide smoothly in the table saw’s miter slot or ride against the existing fence system. For the best results, build the jig so it uses the table saw crosscut sled jointer concept—meaning it travels along the miter slots.
- Attach the Reference Fence: This is the critical part. Secure your hardwood fence piece onto the base plate. It must be perfectly straight. Use wood glue and screws driven up from the bottom so the top surface remains smooth. This fence must be positioned so that when the jig is mounted, the fence edge aligns exactly with the blade height you set.
- Setting Blade Height: For jointing edges, the blade should extend only about 1/8 inch above the wood surface being cut. Set this height precisely before attaching the jig or checking alignment.
- Squaring the Jig: Place the jig on the table saw. Use a high-quality combination square to check that the reference fence is exactly 90 degrees to the blade path. Shim or adjust the fence until it is perfect. This step determines if you will have a square edge or a beveled one.
The Table Saw Jointer Setup for Edge Jointing
Once the jig is built, the table saw jointer setup involves mounting the jig and adjusting the blade depth.
Preparing the Lumber
Before you try to joint an edge, you must have one reference surface that is already flat. In edge jointing with a table saw, you are squaring one edge to a face that is already flat.
- Create a Flat Face: Run the rough board across the table saw blade on its widest, flattest face. You might need several passes to remove high spots. A good trick is to use a secondary guide rail clamped to the table surface to keep the board pressed flat during this first pass.
- Mark the Waste Side: Mark the edge you intend to joint. This is the edge that needs to be perfectly straight.
Performing the Jointing Cut
This is where you rely on the jig to act as the jointer’s fence.
- Mount the Jig: Secure your table saw jointer jig firmly in place. If you built it to ride in the miter slot, use clamps on the far side of the table to lock it down. It cannot move during the cut.
- Position the Board: Place the board against the jig’s reference fence. The flat face of the board must rest firmly on the table saw surface. The edge you want to true should be positioned to meet the blade.
- Blade Depth: The blade should protrude slightly above the wood surface—just enough to cut cleanly through the thin shaving, perhaps 1/8 inch clearance above the highest point of the wood being removed.
- Making the Pass: Use a push block firmly against the board, keeping pressure both against the jig fence and down onto the table surface. Feed the board slowly and steadily through the blade. The quality of the cut depends entirely on maintaining constant pressure against the jig.
- Checking Results: After the pass, remove the board and check the newly cut edge against the flat face using a reliable straight edge or combination square. It should be perfectly square.
This process effectively turns the table saw into a machine capable of table saw for truing edges, achieving results comparable to a small benchtop jointer.
Advanced Techniques and Components
For those looking to make this setup more permanent or professional, certain attachments can improve accuracy and ease of use.
Using the Table Saw Jointer Jig for Face Jointing (Limited Application)
While edge jointing is straightforward, face jointing (making the wide face flat) is much harder and riskier on a table saw. A true jointer spins the wood over a cutter head. On a table saw, you are essentially making continuous, extremely shallow rabbet cuts across the face.
To attempt this, you need a very tall fence system—often requiring modifications to the existing table saw fence—and a method to maintain consistent, extremely light depth of cut across the entire width of the board. This is where specialized table saw milling attachment plans often come into play. These are often complex jigs that elevate the board and guide it across the blade many times. For most hobbyists, this is too complex and dangerous. It is better to use a hand plane or router sled for face flattening.
The Role of Homemade Table Saw Jointer Plans
Many detailed homemade table saw jointer plans exist online. These plans usually focus on perfecting the edge jointing jig. Key features often included in these advanced plans are:
- Adjustable Fence: Allowing fine-tuning of the squareness angle without rebuilding the entire jig.
- T-Track System: Incorporating T-tracks into the base plate allows clamps to be positioned anywhere along the jig for maximum stability.
- Zero-Clearance Inserts: While usually for dado cuts, a zero-clearance feature around the blade path on the jig can help reduce tear-out when making very light jointing passes.
Utilizing a Table Saw Crosscut Sled Jointer Design
Many experienced woodworkers favor modifying their existing table saw crosscut sled jointer style jigs. A crosscut sled already moves smoothly in the miter slots and maintains a perpendicular relationship to the blade.
To adapt a sled:
- Attach a perfectly straight piece of hardwood to the non-moving fence side of the sled, ensuring it is perpendicular to the blade.
- When you run a board through, you press it tightly against this added fence, simulating the action of a jointer fence.
- The sled’s base ensures the wood stays perfectly flat on the table surface throughout the cut.
This method often provides superior repeatability compared to simple clamping setups.
Comparison: Table Saw Jointing vs. Dedicated Jointer
Why bother with an improvised method if you have rough lumber? Here is a comparison to help decide when this technique is appropriate.
| Feature | Table Saw Edge Jointing | Dedicated Jointer |
|---|---|---|
| Accuracy | Dependent entirely on jig quality and user care. Can be very accurate if built well. | High inherent accuracy due to precision bearings and fence alignment. |
| Speed | Slow. Requires careful setup, multiple passes, and constant vigilance. | Fast. A single, smooth pass usually finishes the edge. |
| Safety | Higher risk of kickback if pressure is inconsistent or the jig moves. | Lower risk when operated correctly, as the machine is designed for the task. |
| Face Flattening | Extremely difficult and usually not recommended. | Excellent for creating a perfectly flat face. |
| Cost | Low, as it uses existing equipment and scrap wood for the jig. | Significant initial investment. |
| Ideal Use | Squaring up one edge on small boards or when no jointer is available. | Production work, large boards, or when perfect flatness is required quickly. |
Tips for Achieving Professional Results
Getting a usable edge requires more than just attaching a fence; it involves technique and finesse. This is the core of making a jointer from a table saw.
Fine-Tuning the Cut Depth
The biggest mistake is trying to remove too much material at once. A jointer shaves off thin wafers. Mimic this action.
- Start Shallow: Set the blade height so it only cuts a tiny sliver—think 1/32 inch or less.
- Multiple Passes: If the edge is severely warped, make several very light passes rather than one aggressive pass. This reduces stress on the jig and the blade, resulting in a cleaner cut surface.
Blade Selection Matters
The blade used for ripping (a full-kerf blade with 24 teeth) is generally better than a thin-kerf blade or a blade designed for crosscuts.
- Tooth Count: Fewer teeth (like a standard rip blade) present a more aggressive cutting angle, which is beneficial when using table saw as a jointer. A high-tooth-count finish blade might cause burn marks or tear-out due to the forced feeding angle.
- Sharpness: A dull blade will burn the wood, especially when held tightly against a fixed fence like in a jointing setup. Keep the blade pristine.
Maintaining Consistent Pressure
This cannot be overstated. If pressure drops suddenly against the jig fence, the board will drift toward the blade on the exit side, causing it to cut slightly wider than intended or, worse, causing the edge to wander off square.
- Use push sticks that apply pressure both down (onto the table) and sideways (into the jig fence).
- Keep your body out of the line of fire.
Maintaining Your Improvised Setup
Since this is an improvised table saw jointer, maintenance focuses on the jig itself, not the saw blade setup (which should return to normal settings after the jointing operation).
- Check for Wear: The reference fence on the jig takes the brunt of the abrasion. Check it frequently for dents or embedded debris that could affect the next board.
- Re-square Regularly: Temperature changes or heavy use can cause the jig to shift slightly. Re-check the 90-degree angle between the jig fence and the blade path every few sessions, or every time you change the blade height drastically.
- Clean the Table: Sawdust buildup between the jig base and the table surface can throw off the entire setup. Keep the table clean.
Final Thoughts on Table Saw Jointing
Table saw for truing edges is a valid, practical skill for the woodworker who hasn’t invested in a dedicated machine yet. It allows you to take rough lumber and prepare it for glue-ups or further milling. Success hinges entirely on a well-built, perfectly squared jig, and meticulous attention to slow, steady feed rates. Remember, you are substituting precision engineering with careful mechanical assembly and skilled operation. Always prioritize safety over speed when using table saw as a jointer.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I joint both faces and edges using this method?
A: You can effectively joint edges. Jointing the wide faces is extremely difficult and dangerous on a standard table saw setup. It requires making continuous, shallow cuts across the entire width while ensuring the board remains flat on the table, which is hard to control without a specialized table saw milling attachment or a very robust face-milling jig. It is safer to use a hand plane or router sled for face flattening.
Q: How tall can the reference fence on my table saw jointer jig be?
A: The fence height is limited by the height of your table saw’s standard throat plate or insert. Ideally, the reference fence should be high enough to engage the entire length of the edge you are jointing, but it must not interfere with the blade guard assembly or pose a risk of snagging when wood exits the cut. Keep it manageable, usually no taller than the maximum safe height you would run a standard piece of wood.
Q: Will the edge cut be as smooth as a real jointer?
A: It depends heavily on your blade and technique. A true jointer uses knives that shear the wood cleanly. On a table saw, you are using teeth. If you take very light passes (shavings) and use a sharp, high-quality rip blade, the result can be quite good—often smooth enough for edge glue-ups. If you try to remove too much material, you will see ridges or burn marks.
Q: Is using a thin-kerf blade okay for the table saw jointer setup?
A: While you can technically use one, full-kerf blades are generally recommended for this application. A full-kerf blade is thicker and provides more lateral stability. When you press wood hard against a fixed fence, you want the blade to resist flexing, which a thin-kerf blade is more prone to do.
Q: What is the primary purpose of the table saw jointer jig?
A: The primary purpose of the table saw jointer jig is to provide a second, perfectly straight, and rigidly fixed reference surface (the fence) against which the workpiece is held. This ensures that the edge being cut by the blade is perfectly parallel to the flat face of the wood resting on the table, thus creating a square edge, which is the goal of edge jointing with a table saw.