Can I make my own push block for a table saw? Yes, you absolutely can make your own push block for a table saw. Building a homemade table saw push stick is a great way to boost your shop safety and efficiency. This guide will walk you through making a fantastic DIY push block for table saw use.
Why Make Your Own Table Saw Push Block?
Many woodworkers rely on the small, cheap blocks that come with new saws. These are often too small or lack the grip needed for tricky cuts. Making your own ensures you get a tool that fits your hand and the specific tasks you do most often. A good push block is key to table saw safety push block standards. It keeps your hands far from the spinning blade.
Benefits of a Custom Push Block
A well-made push block offers several advantages:
- Enhanced Safety: It maximizes the distance between your hand and the blade. This is crucial for preventing accidents.
- Better Control: A custom block grips the wood better. This means you push straighter and more evenly.
- Reduced Kickback: A proper design helps prevent the wood from kicking back toward you. This is part of a non-kickback push block design.
- Ergonomics: You can shape it to fit your grip perfectly, reducing hand strain during long sessions. An ergonomic table saw push block is a joy to use.
Selecting the Right Materials for Your Push Block
The materials you choose affect the block’s lifespan, grip, and ease of use. For a sturdy shop-made table saw push block tutorial, hardwood is the best choice.
Recommended Wood Types
Softwoods like pine can dent easily, reducing the block’s effectiveness over time. Hardwoods offer durability.
| Wood Type | Pros | Cons | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Maple | Very hard, smooth finish, durable | Can be pricey | Long-lasting, heavy-use blocks |
| Poplar | Moderately hard, easy to shape | Softer than maple | General purpose blocks |
| Baltic Birch Plywood | Very stable, strong layers | Edges might require sealing | Large, flat push blocks |
Non-Slip Surfaces and Grips
The bottom of the block needs a strong grip on the table saw’s surface. This prevents slipping as you push the wood forward.
- Felt Pads: Some builders use dense craft felt glued to the bottom.
- Rubber Material: Thin sheets of non-slip drawer liner rubber work very well.
- Stiff Brush Bristles: For a truly aggressive grip, you can use short, stiff bristles mounted on the bottom. This is common in advanced table saw push block construction.
Step-by-Step Guide: Building a Versatile Push Block
This section details how to create a versatile table saw push block jig. This design is excellent for general ripping and crosscutting.
Tools You Will Need
Gather these tools before starting your build:
- Table Saw (for cutting the main stock and creating grooves)
- Miter Saw or Hand Saw (for initial sizing)
- Router or Router Table (optional, for rounding edges)
- Drill and various bits
- Clamps
- Measuring tape and pencil
- Safety gear (eye and ear protection)
Materials Required
- One piece of hardwood stock (at least 3/4 inch thick, 3 inches wide, and 10 inches long).
- Screws or strong wood glue.
- Non-slip material (rubber sheet or felt).
Phase 1: Shaping the Main Body
The shape of the block determines how comfortably you can apply downward and forward pressure.
Creating the Handle (The Grip)
A good handle is vital. Many designs feature a table saw push block with handles mounted on top.
- Mark the Outline: On your hardwood piece, draw the shape. You want a wide base for stability and a handle that rises up comfortably. Many commercial best table saw push block plans show an angled or arched top.
- Rough Cutting: Use a band saw or jigsaw to cut the general profile of the block and the handle shape.
- Refining the Shape: Use a router with a round-over bit to smooth all sharp edges. This makes the block comfortable to hold.
Phase 2: Incorporating the Non-Kickback Features
A non-kickback push block design requires features that apply downward pressure and prevent the wood from lifting or moving sideways during the cut.
Adding the Push Pad
The part that contacts the wood needs aggressive contact points.
- Grooves for Grip: Cut shallow, parallel grooves across the bottom surface where the wood will contact the block. These grooves should run perpendicular to the direction of the push. You can do this easily on the table saw using a dado stack or by making several shallow passes with a regular blade.
- Attaching Grips: If you opted for stiff bristles or rubber strips, carefully attach them into or over these grooves using strong adhesive or small screws. Ensure the attachment method does not interfere with the wood movement.
The Side/Hold-Down Feature
This feature presses the workpiece against the fence, preventing sideways drift.
- Creating the Wall: On the side of the block that faces the fence, you need a section that rides against the fence as you push.
- Installing Sliding Material: To reduce friction against the fence, glue a piece of thin, slippery material here, like PTFE (Teflon) tape or a small piece of high-density polyethylene (HDPE). This ensures smooth movement without binding.
Phase 3: Final Assembly and Finishing
This involves securing any separate handle pieces and adding the non-slip base.
- Handle Attachment (If separate): If you decided to build the handle as a separate piece (common for advanced table saw push block construction), attach it securely to the body using strong glue and perhaps a couple of dowels or screws counter-sunk deep into the wood.
- Base Layer: Flip the block over. Cut your chosen non-slip material (rubber or felt) to match the footprint of the bottom of the block. Glue this material down firmly. Let the glue cure completely.
- Finishing Touches: Lightly sand the handle areas where your hands will rest. You can apply a coat of paste wax to the wood surfaces (avoiding the push pads) to make the block glide smoothly over wood shavings.
Advanced Techniques: Building for Specific Operations
While the guide above covers a general-purpose block, specialized tasks benefit from specialized tools.
Push Block for Thin Stock Ripping
When ripping thin strips, you need maximum downward pressure because the wood is light and prone to lifting over the blade.
- Design Adjustment: Make the contact surface very wide to distribute the pressure evenly across the narrow board.
- High-Friction Base: Use aggressive, stiff brush material on the bottom for maximum grip on the table surface, as thin stock requires more force to move straight.
Push Block for Scroll and Irregular Cuts
For cuts that require pushing the wood at an angle or turning slightly (like making small curved panels), the versatile table saw push block jig needs modification.
- Pivot Point: Some advanced designs incorporate a slight ball joint or pivot mechanism on the handle to allow the user to maintain pressure while guiding the wood through slight arcs.
- Lower Profile: A lower profile makes it easier to see the line of cut when maneuvering around curves.
Creating a Safe Hold-Down Handle
For maximum control, consider building a table saw push block with handles that allows a two-handed grip or a substantial single handle.
- D-Shape Handle: A D-shaped handle mounted over the top allows you to pull down firmly with your palm while pushing forward with your fingers underneath.
- Placement: Ensure the handle is positioned so that when you grip it, your hand remains well behind the path of the blade, even when pushing the stock completely off the table.
Maintenance and Best Practices for Your Push Block
Even the best push block needs care to remain effective and safe.
Cleaning and Inspection
Regular inspection ensures your push block remains a reliable safety device.
- Remove Debris: After every session, use a brush or compressed air to clear dust and wood chips from the push pads and grooves. Built-up debris reduces friction.
- Check Adhesives: Periodically check the base pads and any glued-on handles. If they start lifting, re-glue them immediately. A loose pad is a hazard.
- Inspect Wear: Look for deep dents or cuts in the push surface. If the wood surface that contacts your workpiece is severely damaged, consider sanding it flat or replacing the worn section.
Storing Your Push Block
Never leave your push block resting on the table saw surface near the blade when the saw is running or unattended.
- Dedicated Hook: Install a small hook near your saw station specifically to hang your push block. This keeps it handy but safely out of the way.
- Keep it Clean: Store it away from oily rags or chemical spills that might degrade the rubber base material.
Comparing DIY vs. Commercial Push Blocks
Many high-quality commercial push blocks exist, such as those made by MicroJig or Rockler. How does your shop-made table saw push block tutorial stand up against them?
| Feature | Homemade Push Block | Commercial Push Block |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | Very low (cost of scrap wood) | Moderate to high |
| Customization | Total control over shape and size | Limited to available models |
| Grip System | Can use varied materials (felt, rubber, bristles) | Often uses proprietary, replaceable pads |
| Learning Curve | Requires basic shop skills | Ready to use out of the box |
| Safety Compliance | Relies entirely on correct construction | Often engineered for specific safety standards |
For woodworkers wanting a specific feel, or those on a tight budget, the DIY route is superior. For maximum, guaranteed adherence to complex safety specifications right away, a commercial unit might be preferred initially. However, a properly built table saw safety push block you make yourself is often just as safe, if not safer, for your specific needs.
Deciphering Safe Push Block Usage
Making the tool is only half the job. Using it correctly is the other half. This ensures your non-kickback push block design functions as intended.
Correct Pushing Technique
- Contact Points: Ensure the block contacts the wood firmly on both the top surface (for downward force) and the side surface (for fence pressure).
- Straight Path: Push smoothly and straight along the fence line. Avoid jerking or twisting the block, as this can cause the block to ride up or slip off the wood.
- Maintain Contact: Never release pressure on the block until the entire piece has cleared the blade entirely. Your hand should be guiding the block even when the wood is fully cut.
Working with Different Cut Types
- Ripping (Long Cuts): Use the longest push block you comfortably can. This provides a longer point of contact, stabilizing the wood over the entire length of the cut.
- Crosscutting (Short Pieces): For very short pieces, you might need a block with a handle positioned more centrally, allowing you to push the entire piece through in one smooth motion without your hand getting near the blade path.
Final Thoughts on Your Custom Tool
Creating your own push block is a rewarding exercise in tool customization. By following these steps, you move beyond simply owning safety gear; you own a tool precisely engineered for your hands and your saw. Remember that every table saw push block with handles or custom grip you build enhances your shop’s safety profile. Take your time, prioritize solid construction, and enjoy the improved control during your woodworking projects. This DIY push block for table saw will become one of your most used and appreciated shop aids.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How thick should the bottom of the push block be?
A: The base thickness is largely dependent on the grip material you use. If you are using thin rubber or felt (less than 1/8 inch), the wood base should be at least 3/4 inch thick to provide structural integrity. If you are using stiff brush bristles, the overall thickness must accommodate these without compromising stability.
Q: Can I use my push block for both table saw and router table work?
A: Yes, many designs work perfectly well for both. If you are designing an ergonomic table saw push block, ensure the bottom surface is very flat for table saw use. For the router table, you might want even more aggressive gripping material since router tables sometimes generate more upward lift on small pieces.
Q: What is the ideal angle for the handle on a push block?
A: There is no single “ideal” angle, as it depends on your arm length and typical working height. Most builders find an angle between 30 and 45 degrees relative to the base works best for applying downward force without forcing the wrist into an awkward position. Experimentation is key for finding the best best table saw push block plans for you.
Q: How do I ensure my homemade block is truly non-kickback?
A: A non-kickback push block design relies on three things: a solid grip on the table, firm downward pressure on the wood, and firm lateral pressure against the fence. If the block slips, lifts, or slides sideways during the cut, it fails to be non-kickback. Always test new designs slowly on scrap wood first.
Q: Do I need specialized hardware for an advanced table saw push block construction?
A: For very advanced table saw push block construction, such as those with articulated joints or quick-release mechanisms, you might need brass inserts, specialized bolts, or even small spring-loaded plungers. For standard blocks, simple screws and high-quality wood glue are often enough.