Yes, it is absolutely possible to install a rivnut without using the specialized tool, although it might take more effort and careful work. This guide will show you several proven rivnut installation methods that rely on common household items or basic hand tools instead of a dedicated rivet nut setter. Many times in a pinch, we need a secure, threaded anchor point, and installing rivnuts manually becomes necessary when the proper tool is not handy.
Why People Seek No Tool Rivnut Setting Options
Dedicated rivnut tools, often called rivet nut setters or rivet guns, are designed to apply the exact amount of consistent pulling force needed to properly set a rivnut. However, these tools are not always available, especially in remote locations or for casual DIY projects. People often search for no tool rivnut setter options when:
- They need a quick fix for a broken fastener.
- They are doing DIY rivnut setting on a small, one-time job.
- They want to test a material before investing in a specialized tool.
- They are in a field environment requiring field expedient rivnut installation.
This pursuit has led to various rivnut installation hacks and alternative rivnut installation techniques.
Basic Principles of Rivnut Installation
Before diving into the tool-less methods, it is key to grasp what a rivnut (also called a blind rivet nut or rivet insert) does. It is a type of fastener that provides a strong, machine-thread receptacle in thin materials like sheet metal, plastic, or fiberglass.
The setting process requires two main actions:
- Insertion: Placing the rivnut body into a pre-drilled hole.
- Swaging/Deformation: Pulling the mandrel (the internal threaded part) outward. This action causes the unthreaded lower portion of the rivnut body to collapse or “swell” behind the material, locking it firmly in place. Once set, the mandrel is typically snapped off, leaving a clean thread.
Tool-less methods aim to replicate this controlled pulling force using leverage or simple mechanical advantage.
Preparing for Tool-Free Rivnut Installation
Success in hand install rivnuts heavily depends on good preparation. Skipping these steps leads to stripped threads, crushed materials, or a loose installation.
Hole Sizing is Crucial
The hole size is the most critical factor. Too small, and the rivnut won’t fit. Too large, and the material won’t collapse correctly, resulting in a weak joint. Always check the rivnut manufacturer’s specifications for the recommended hole diameter for the specific rivnut size (e.g., M6, 1/4-20).
Table 1: General Hole Size Guidelines
| Rivnut Material | Hole Size Range (vs. Nominal Size) | Setting Action Required |
|---|---|---|
| Aluminum/Soft Metal | Tight fit (often 0.01mm smaller) | Moderate expansion force needed. |
| Steel/Hard Metal | Precise fit (as specified) | Higher expansion force needed. |
| Plastic/Composite | Slightly larger (to prevent cracking) | Low force, focus on gripping. |
Material Thickness Matters
The material you are installing the rivnut into must be thick enough to allow the bottom lip to expand without pushing through the back side. If the material is too thin, even a perfect tool-less pull might fail.
Method 1: The Bolt and Washer Squeeze Technique (Most Common Hack)
This technique attempts to mimic the pulling action of a setter using standard hardware. It works best for smaller rivnuts (up to about 3/8 inch or M8). This is a primary rivnut installation hack for quick fixes.
Required Components
- The correct size bolt that fits the internal thread of the rivnut.
- A stack of flat washers (enough to span the material thickness plus about 1/4 inch extra space).
- A nut to lock the bolt.
Step-by-Step Guide for Hand Install Rivnuts
- Prepare the Rivnut: Place the rivnut into the pre-drilled hole. Ensure the flange sits flat against the surface.
- Assemble the Puller: Slide the stack of washers onto the bolt. The washer stack acts as the “body” of the tool that will press against the material surface.
- Insert the Bolt: Thread the bolt through the hole in the rivnut mandrel.
- Apply Counter-Pressure: Hold the bolt steady. Start threading the locking nut onto the bolt, ensuring the bottom of the washer stack rests firmly against the material surface around the hole.
- Controlled Tightening: Slowly tighten the locking nut. As you tighten the nut against the washer stack, the bolt pulls the mandrel inwards. This pulling action collapses the bottom part of the rivnut.
- Monitor Deformation: Keep tightening until you feel significant resistance, indicating the body has fully expanded (swaged). Listen for a subtle crunch, which often signals a complete set, but stop before you feel the material bending excessively.
- Release Tension: Loosen the locking nut and remove the bolt and washers. The rivnut should now be firmly seated.
Caution: If you overtighten, you risk pulling the entire rivnut out of the hole (if the material is too thin) or stripping the internal threads of the mandrel as you pull.
Method 2: Using Pliers for Limited Expansion (For Very Soft Materials)
This method is an alternative rivnut installation often used for plastic or very soft aluminum sheets where aggressive pulling is not needed. It relies on using vice grips or locking pliers to physically pull the mandrel head. This is effective for installing blind rivets without tool assistance when the rivet head is accessible.
Limitations
This method is difficult for standard slotted-head rivnuts as the leverage is poor. It works best if the mandrel head has a distinct shape that pliers can grip securely.
The Process
- Secure the Pliers: Clamp a pair of locking pliers (Vice Grips) very tightly onto the exposed end of the rivnut mandrel.
- Stabilize the Rivnut: Use your free hand or a block of wood to brace the body of the rivnut flange firmly against the material surface. This counter-force is vital.
- Pull Slowly: Gently squeeze the handles of the pliers to pull the mandrel outwards. You are mimicking the action of a tool draw-stem.
- Check the Set: As the rivnut begins to collapse, you will feel the resistance change. Once it feels solid, stop immediately.
- Remove: Carefully release the pliers and break the mandrel off (if applicable).
This method requires patience to avoid snapping the mandrel prematurely or bending the rivnut head.
Method 3: The Two-Wrench Leverage System (For Medium-Duty Jobs)
This advanced technique provides superior control over the pulling force compared to the bolt-and-washer method, making it excellent for rivnut installation without specialized tool requirements on slightly thicker metal.
Required Components
- One wrench to hold the rivnut body steady (counter-wrench).
- One wrench to turn the mandrel (pulling wrench).
Execution Steps
- Brace the Body: Insert the rivnut into the hole. Place the counter-wrench (or a socket attached to a wrench) onto the flange of the rivnut. This wrench must keep the body from spinning or moving outwards during the pull.
- Engage the Mandrel: Attach the pulling wrench to the end of the mandrel sticking out.
- Apply Force: While applying firm, steady pressure with the counter-wrench to keep the body seated, slowly rotate the pulling wrench. The rotation translates into a linear pull on the mandrel stem.
- Watch for Expansion: Continue rotating until the expansion (swaging) is complete. Because you are rotating rather than pulling straight, you have more consistent pressure application across the entire collar, leading to a better seal.
- Reset and Remove: Loosen the pulling wrench, remove both tools, and break the mandrel.
This closely resembles how some industrial setters operate but uses rotational force instead of pure linear draw force, relying on the screw threads of the mandrel itself.
Method 4: Utilizing a C-Clamp or Bar Clamp (For High, Controlled Pressure)
When maximum, consistent pressure is needed, a large clamp provides mechanical advantage far exceeding hand tightening. This is perhaps the most reliable technique for installing rivnuts manually when the hole size is precise.
Setup Requirements
- A sturdy C-Clamp or a robust quick-grip bar clamp.
- A hardened washer or metal block that spans the flange of the rivnut.
- A piece of metal or wood that spans the inside of the material surface (the backing block).
The Clamping Procedure
- Position the Backing Block: Place the backing block underneath the material, directly opposite the rivnut hole. This block receives the clamping force.
- Seat the Rivnut: Place the rivnut into the hole. Place the hardened washer (or a small socket matching the mandrel head) on top of the mandrel head.
- Apply the Clamp: Position the clamp jaws. One jaw rests firmly on the backing block underneath. The other jaw presses down directly onto the washer/mandrel head assembly.
- Slowly Cinch Down: Tighten the clamp slowly. The clamp pulls the mandrel head down toward the backing block. This compresses the material between the rivnut flange (top) and the swelling body (bottom).
- Hold and Check: Once the clamp feels tight and you notice the material slightly dimpling around the flange (a sign of full expansion), hold the pressure for a few seconds to let the material set.
- Release: Slowly open the clamp, remove the assembly, and discard the mandrel.
This method is excellent for ensuring a solid set, resembling the action of a hydraulic rivnut tool but achieved mechanically via the clamp screw.
Post-Installation Checks and Troubleshooting
After attempting any of these tool-less methods, you must verify the installation quality. A poorly set rivnut can fail under load or strip out when a bolt is inserted.
Checking the Set Quality
| Check Point | Sign of Good Set | Sign of Failure |
|---|---|---|
| Visual Inspection | Flange sits perfectly flush; material is slightly dimpled but not torn. | Flange is tilted, or the material is visibly stretched/pulled inward unevenly. |
| Torque Test | Bolt threads in smoothly and holds specified torque. | Bolt feels gritty; threads strip under low torque; the rivnut spins in the hole. |
| Wiggle Test | The rivnut body is completely rigid and immovable. | The entire unit moves slightly when tugged laterally. |
Troubleshooting Common Tool-Less Issues
Problem: The rivnut spins in the hole when I try to tighten the bolt.
* Cause: The expansion (swaging) did not happen enough, or the material is too soft for the rivnut type.
* Fix: Try the C-Clamp method for a stronger pull. If that fails, the hole is likely too big. You may need to fill the hole with epoxy or switch to a slightly larger rivnut diameter if available.
Problem: The mandrel snapped off too early (before the rivnut fully set).
* Cause: Too much pulling force was applied too quickly, or the material was too thick for the mandrel’s breaking point. This is common in installing blind rivets without tool methods that rely on brute force.
* Fix: If the rivnut is only partially set, it might still hold lightly. If it’s loose, you must drill it out carefully and start over. For future attempts, use the Bolt and Washer method, tightening slowly to feel the expansion point before the break.
Problem: The material around the flange is getting distorted or torn.
* Cause: The hole was too large, or you did not use sufficient counter-pressure/backing material.
* Fix: Use a backing block or large washers to distribute the pressure from the flange across a wider area when using leverage methods (Methods 1 and 4).
When Tool-Less Installation Is Not Recommended
While these rivnut installation hacks are useful in a bind, they are not substitutes for the proper tool in every situation. You should avoid tool-less methods when:
- High Load Application: If the joint will bear significant shear or tensile loads (e.g., mounting a heavy suspension component or securing critical safety parts).
- Vibration Exposure: In environments with constant vibration, a perfectly set, factory-calibrated installation is necessary for long-term reliability.
- Critical Sealing: If the assembly requires a waterproof or airtight seal, the consistency of a dedicated setter is usually required.
- Hard Materials: Setting steel rivnuts in thick gauge steel is very difficult and often risks snapping the mandrel before proper expansion is achieved without specialized force multiplication.
For high-stakes or high-volume work, purchasing or borrowing a proper rivnut installation tool is always the safer and more professional route.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I use super glue to hold a rivnut in place instead of setting it?
No. Super glue (cyanoacrylate) only bonds surfaces; it does not provide the mechanical locking required for a structural fastener. If you need a threaded anchor point, the rivnut must be mechanically set (swaged) into the material, even if you are installing rivnuts manually.
What size bolt should I use for the bolt and washer method?
You must use the exact size bolt that matches the internal thread of the rivnut. For example, if you have an M5 rivnut, use an M5 bolt. Using a bolt that is too large will strip the internal thread before the body sets. Using one that is too small will not pull the mandrel sufficiently.
How do I remove a rivnut if I mess up the tool-less installation?
If a rivnut is set poorly, the most common removal technique is to use a drill bit slightly larger than the mandrel’s diameter but smaller than the outer diameter of the rivnut flange. Drill straight down the center of the mandrel until you drill through the internal threads. This should weaken the set rivet enough to allow you to pull it out with pliers or simply pick out the remaining pieces.
Is it easier to install rivnuts in aluminum or steel without a tool?
It is significantly easier to install rivnuts in aluminum. Aluminum is softer and requires less force to deform the body into the material for a secure grip. Steel requires much greater force, making field expedient rivnut installation on steel much more challenging without a dedicated setter.
Does the mandrel always break off cleanly?
If the rivnut is set correctly using any method, the mandrel is designed to break cleanly at a predetermined weak point just below the head. If it doesn’t break, you may need a pair of diagonal cutters or a sharp chisel to shear the remaining stem off flush with the installed rivnut head.