An Arrow rivet tool is a handheld device used to join two or more pieces of material together using rivets. Can I use it on any material? You can generally use an Arrow rivet tool on thin sheets of metal, plastic, or other similar materials.
This guide will teach you everything about using your Arrow rivet tool. We will cover the basics, how to set rivets correctly, and how to keep your tool in great shape. Following these steps ensures strong, lasting connections every time you work. This manual rivet setter guide makes the job simple.
Deciphering the Arrow Rivet Tool Basics
Arrow makes several types of rivet tools. Most people use a manual hand riveter. These are great for small jobs and quick fixes. They are easy to carry around. If you work in a shop a lot, you might look at an air rivet gun usage later, but the manual tool is the starting point.
What Are Rivets and Why Use Them?
Rivets are permanent fasteners. They hold things together tightly. Unlike screws, you cannot easily take a rivet out without damaging it.
- They offer a strong, vibration-resistant joint.
- They work well when you cannot access the back side of the material (that is why they are often called “blind rivets”).
Parts of Your Hand Riveter
Knowing the parts helps you use the tool right. This is key to successful rivet installation techniques.
| Part Name | Main Function |
|---|---|
| Nose Piece (or Chuck) | Holds the rivet head firmly. |
| Handle/Lever | Provides the force needed to pull the pin. |
| Mandrel Collection Tube | Catches the scrap pin (mandrel) after setting. |
| Swivel Head | Allows for better access in tight spots (on some models). |
Getting Ready: Preparation Before Setting Rivets
Good prep work stops problems later. Always prepare your materials first. This is vital for best practices for riveting.
Choosing the Right Rivet
Rivets come in different sizes and materials. You must match the rivet to your job.
- Diameter: The rivet diameter must fit the hole size. If the hole is too big, the rivet won’t hold well.
- Grip Range: This is the total thickness of the material you are joining. Check the rivet package. The rivet must be long enough to cover this thickness, plus room for the tail to form.
- Material: Aluminum rivets are common. Steel rivets are stronger. Use the right type for the job.
Preparing the Materials
You must drill the holes correctly. Poor hole preparation ruins the best riveting effort.
Drilling the Holes
The holes must be clean and the right size.
- Use a drill bit matching the rivet diameter.
- The hole size should be just a bit bigger than the rivet body.
- Ensure the two pieces of material line up perfectly.
- Remove any burrs (sharp edges) from the hole edges. Smooth edges help the rivet seat flat.
Fitting the Rivet
Place the rivet through the aligned holes. The head of the rivet should sit flat against the top piece of material. If it wobbles, your hole is too big.
Step-by-Step: Setting Rivets with a Hand Riveter
This section walks you through using your tool. These are the core rivet gun instructions. We focus here on using a manual rivet setter guide.
Step 1: Selecting and Installing the Nose Piece
The nose piece is crucial. It grips the rivet’s stem (the pin).
- Match the Size: Look at the rivet package. It states the nose piece size needed (e.g., 3/32″, 1/8″).
- Remove Old Piece: Unscrew the old nose piece from the tool tip. You often need pliers for this.
- Install New Piece: Screw the correct nose piece on tightly. Make sure it is snug.
Step 2: Loading the Rivet into the Tool
This step loads the rivet so it is ready to be pulled.
- Hold the rivet tool upright.
- Slide the rivet body into the opening of the nose piece.
- Push the rivet in until the head stops firmly against the nose piece.
- The tool’s jaws (the internal gripping parts) should grab the end of the mandrel (the pin sticking out).
Step 3: Positioning the Tool
Now, place the tool against your work.
- Hold the tool perpendicular (straight up and down) to the material. A slight angle can cause bending.
- Press the nose piece firmly against the rivet head. The tool body should touch the surface of your material. This ensures the rivet is seated flat before pulling.
Step 4: Actuating the Tool (The Pulling Action)
This is where the magic happens. You are using leverage to pull the pin. This covers the basics of setting rivets with a hand riveter.
- Squeeze the Handles: Squeeze the handles of the riveter together slowly and steadily.
- Feel the Resistance: You will feel resistance build up. Keep squeezing until the handles meet or you cannot squeeze any further.
- Listen for the Snap: A correctly set rivet will make a distinct “snap” sound. This sound means the mandrel pin has broken off.
Step 5: Checking and Cleaning Up
Once the snap happens, the rivet is set.
- Release the Handles: Open the handles fully.
- Check the Rivet: Look at the exterior head. It should be flat and tight against the material.
- Remove the Mandrel: The broken pin (mandrel) should fall out of the tool. If it stays stuck, check your tool’s internal mechanism. Empty the mandrel collection tube regularly.
Advanced Techniques for Using a Pop Rivet Setter
Sometimes, jobs require more finesse than a simple squeeze. This is where mastering using a pop rivet setter comes in handy.
Dealing with Curved or Awkward Surfaces
When riveting a curve, alignment is harder.
- Keep Perpendicular: Try your best to keep the tool straight across the joint. If you pull at an angle, the rivet might pull unevenly.
- Two-Stage Setting: For very thick material or tough rivets, some professionals use a two-stage squeeze. Squeeze halfway, release slightly, reset your grip, and squeeze hard until the break. This helps seat the rivet gently before the final break.
When to Use an Air Rivet Gun Usage
If you do hundreds of rivets a day, a manual tool is tiring. An air rivet gun (pneumatic riveter) is much faster.
- Speed: They set rivets in a fraction of a second.
- Power: They handle larger, harder rivets better than hand tools.
- Operation: Air tools require an air compressor. You pull a trigger instead of squeezing handles. Always follow the specific air rivet gun operation manual for safety. They are much more powerful.
Securing Soft Materials (Plastics and Wood)
Rivets are great for metal, but they can crack soft materials if you pull too hard.
- Use Flange Head Rivets: These have a wider head shape. This spreads the force over a larger area, preventing cracking.
- Use a Thicker Backer: Place a small, thin metal washer or plate behind the material you are riveting into. This acts as a “backup plate” to absorb some of the squeezing force.
Pop Rivet Tool Maintenance for Longevity
Proper care keeps your tool working well. Good pop rivet tool maintenance prevents jams and ensures reliable setting.
Cleaning After Each Use
After finishing a project, take a minute to clean the tool.
- Empty the Container: Dispose of all the broken mandrel pins from the catcher tube. A full catcher tube can block the tool’s action.
- Wipe Down: Wipe down the handles and body to remove dirt and debris.
Lubrication Schedule
Most manual rivet setters need occasional lubrication. This reduces friction and wear on moving parts.
- Check the Manual: Always see what the Arrow manufacturer suggests first.
- Grease Points: Focus on the pivot points and the jaws inside the nose piece. Use a light machine oil or lithium grease. Apply sparingly. Too much grease attracts dirt.
Inspecting the Nose Pieces and Jaws
Worn nose pieces cause rivets to slip or misalign.
- Check Jaws: Look inside the tool head where the jaws grip the mandrel. If the jaws look dull or rounded, they might not grip tightly. This causes the tool to spin the mandrel instead of pulling it.
- Replace Worn Parts: Nose pieces are often replaceable. If the jaws inside are worn, professional repair might be needed, or replacement of the tool itself may be more economical depending on the model.
Best Practices for Riveting: Ensuring Quality Joints
To achieve professional results, follow these best practices for riveting.
Hole Size Accuracy is Everything
If the hole is too small, you must force the rivet in. This damages the rivet head or the material. If the hole is too large, the rivet expands too much and the grip weakens. Aim for a precise fit.
Proper Tool Alignment
We cannot stress this enough: Alignment must be 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the surface.
If you are setting rivets on an angle, the force of the tool pulls the rivet sideways, not straight back. This creates a crooked, weak joint. Use square guides or jigs if you are setting many rivets in a straight line.
The “Feel” of Setting a Rivet
Good operators learn to “feel” the rivet setting.
- Too Little Squeeze: If you stop before the snap, the rivet is not fully set. The mandrel will stay stuck in the tool, and the joint will be loose.
- Too Much Squeeze (Hand Tools): You cannot really squeeze too hard if the tool is designed for the rivet size. The tool simply stops when the levers bottom out.
- Air Tool Caution: With air tools, stop immediately after the snap. Continuing to run the air tool after the rivet sets can damage the tool or deform the head severely.
Table of Common Rivet Sizes and Uses
| Rivet Diameter (Inches) | Typical Grip Range (Inches) | Common Application |
|---|---|---|
| 3/32″ (2.4 mm) | Up to 1/8″ | Light sheet metal, plastic repairs |
| 1/8″ (3.2 mm) | Up to 3/16″ | General purpose joining, automotive trim |
| 5/32″ (4.0 mm) | Up to 1/4″ | Heavier duty frames, HVAC ductwork |
| 3/16″ (4.8 mm) | Up to 3/8″ | Structural connections (use steel rivets) |
Troubleshooting Common Riveting Issues
Sometimes things go wrong. Here is how to fix common problems encountered when setting rivets with a hand riveter or similar tools.
Problem 1: The Mandrel Keeps Breaking Off Inside the Tool
This is frustrating. It means the tool isn’t pulling the pin all the way through.
- Check the Nose Piece: Is it the wrong size? A nose piece that is too small won’t grip the mandrel correctly.
- Worn Jaws: The internal jaws that grab the pin might be slipping. They need to grip hard enough to pull the pin out completely before it snaps.
- Rivet Quality: Very cheap or damaged rivets can have weak mandrels that snap too soon.
Problem 2: The Rivet Head Looks Messy or Deformed
This often happens when the rivet is not seated properly before the final pull.
- Insufficient Pre-Load: You didn’t squeeze hard enough initially to seat the rivet head flat against the material.
- Misalignment: If the tool was at a sharp angle, the force was not distributed evenly across the head, leading to a lopsided bulge.
- Wrong Rivet Length: If the rivet is too long for the material, the tail forms unevenly, sometimes pulling the outer head sideways.
Problem 3: The Joint is Loose After Setting
This means the rivet didn’t fully clinch the material together.
- Hole Too Big: The most frequent cause. The rivet body didn’t fill the hole completely.
- Incomplete Pull: You did not squeeze the handles fully until the snap occurred.
- Incorrect Grip Range: The rivet was too short for the material thickness. It “bottomed out” before it could pull the materials tight.
Final Thoughts on Using Your Rivet Tool
Using an Arrow rivet tool effectively is a skill built on practice. Start with scrap material. Get a feel for the squeeze required. Once you master the manual setter, you can move confidently to more complex assembly work. Always prioritize safety: wear eye protection when riveting. The mandrel pins can shoot out with surprising force. Keep your tool clean, use the right parts, and you will build strong, lasting joints every time.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What is the difference between a pop rivet and a regular rivet?
A: A “pop rivet” is simply a specific type of blind rivet designed to break its mandrel pin inside the tool when set, making it ideal for one-sided access. “Regular rivets” can sometimes refer to solid rivets, which require a bucking bar and hammer from the backside to form the second head, making them non-blind fasteners.
Q: Can I reuse a set rivet?
A: No. Rivets are permanent fasteners. Once set, they must be drilled out to be removed. Attempting to reuse one will result in a weak or failed joint.
Q: How do I know what size rivet to use if I don’t have the grip range?
A: Measure the total thickness of the materials you are joining in inches or millimeters. Then, choose a rivet whose specified grip range covers that thickness. A good rule of thumb is that the rivet should be long enough so that the broken mandrel pin is about 1/16 inch longer than the material thickness after setting.
Q: Why are my new rivets jamming in the nose piece?
A: This usually happens if the nose piece is too large for the rivet. The jaws inside the tool can’t get a proper grip on the mandrel stem, causing slippage or premature breaking inside the tool head. Check your nose piece selection carefully.
Q: Do I need to lubricate an air rivet gun usage device?
A: Yes, air tools require inline air lubrication. Connect a small oiler to your air line setup to ensure the internal piston and components receive continuous lubrication. This is critical for the longevity of any pneumatic tool.