What saw cuts metal? Many saws can cut metal, including hacksaws, circular saws fitted with specific blades, abrasive saws, band saws, and specialized power tools designed for this purpose. Choosing the right saw depends on the metal type, thickness, job size, and needed precision.
Cutting metal might seem hard, but it is not. With the right tools and a little know-how, anyone can do it. This guide will explore the best metal cutting tools available. We will look at the different types of metal saws. We will also give you tips on cutting metal with a saw safely and well.
Why Choose a Saw for Metal Cutting?
People use many methods to cut metal. You can use snips, shears, or torches. But saws offer key benefits, especially for DIY tasks. Saws give you good control over the cut line. They are safer than torches for many jobs. Saws also work well for various thicknesses and metal types.
When picking a tool, think about what you need to do. Do you need a clean, straight cut? Or do you need to make many quick, rough cuts? Power tools for cutting metal make big jobs much faster. Manual saws are great for small fixes or quiet work.
Main Types of Saws for Cutting Metal
There are several primary types of metal saws. Each one excels in different situations. Picking the right tool saves time and effort. It also helps keep your blades sharp longer.
The Handheld Classic: The Hacksaw
The hacksaw is the oldest and simplest tool for cutting metal by hand. It is cheap and easy to store.
How a Hacksaw Works
A hacksaw uses a thin blade held tight in a metal frame. You push and pull the saw to cut. This action requires muscle power.
- Best For: Small jobs, thin metal pieces, or pipes.
- Pros: Low cost, very portable, no electricity needed.
- Cons: Slow, tiring for long cuts, hard to get a perfectly straight cut.
Choosing Hacksaw Blades
The blade is the most important part of the hacksaw. Blades have teeth per inch (TPI).
| Metal Thickness | Recommended TPI | Why This TPI? |
|---|---|---|
| Thin Sheet Metal (Under 1/8″) | 24 to 32 TPI | Many small teeth catch the thin edge better. |
| Medium Metal (1/8″ to 1/4″) | 18 to 24 TPI | Good balance of speed and clean cutting. |
| Thick Bar Stock (Over 1/4″) | 14 to 18 TPI | Fewer teeth mean bigger gullets to clear chips. |
Always remember this rule: Use a blade where at least three teeth touch the metal at all times. This stops the blade from grabbing or breaking.
Stationary Powerhouses: Abrasive and Chop Saws
For bigger jobs, you need power tools for cutting metal. These machines use high speed to remove material fast.
Abrasive Saw for Metal (Cut-Off Saw)
An abrasive saw for metal looks a lot like a regular chop saw. But instead of a toothed blade, it uses a thin, hard disc made of abrasive material (like aluminum oxide).
- How it Works: The spinning disc grinds through the metal using friction and abrasion. This creates a lot of sparks and heat.
- Best For: Cutting hard metals like steel beams, angle iron, or thick bar stock quickly.
- Pros: Very fast cutting speed, handles very hard metals well.
- Cons: Leaves a rough, burnt edge; creates many sparks; not precise.
When using an abrasive saw for metal, safety gear is a must. Sparks fly everywhere.
Chop Saw for Metal (Dry Cut or Cold Cut)
A chop saw for metal, often called a dry-cut saw, is much better for clean cuts than an abrasive saw. These saws use specialized carbide-tipped blades.
- How it Works: The carbide teeth bite into the metal, similar to a wood-cutting circular saw. This removes metal chips instead of grinding them away.
- Best For: Making accurate, straight crosscuts in steel tubing, angle iron, or square stock.
- Pros: Very clean cuts, less burr (sharp edge) left behind, much cooler cut, quieter than abrasive saws.
- Cons: More expensive initial cost for the saw and blades.
If you need neat joints for welding, a chop saw for metal with a good blade is the superior choice over an abrasive model.
The Versatile Workhorse: The Band Saw
The band saw for metal is a favorite among metalworkers. It offers an excellent balance of speed, precision, and a cool cut.
Portable vs. Stationary Metal Band Saws
Band saws come in two main styles:
- Portable Metal Cutting Saw: These are lightweight units you can carry to the job site. They often have adjustable feet or clamps. They are great for cutting pipes or beams where you cannot easily move the metal. These are excellent examples of a portable metal cutting saw.
- Stationary Metal Band Saw: These are large, standing machines found in workshops. They often have tilting tables for angled cuts and more powerful motors for high volume work.
- How it Works: A long, continuous loop of blade bends around two or three wheels. This moving blade cuts the material.
- Best For: Straight cuts on various shapes (round, square, tube) with very little waste material.
- Pros: Cool, quiet cut; very straight results; blades last a long time; low kickback risk.
- Cons: Can be slower than abrasive saws for very thick stock; initial cost can be high for quality models.
When selecting a blade for a band saw for metal, tension is key. Too loose, and the blade wanders. Too tight, and it wears out fast.
Specialized Power Tools for Metal
Beyond the main saw types, other power tools for cutting metal deserve mention.
Reciprocating Saws (Sawzalls)
A reciprocating saw, often known by the brand name Sawzall, can cut metal if you use the correct blade.
- Key Requirement: You must use a specific metal-cutting blade, usually high-speed steel (HSS) or bi-metal construction, with fine teeth.
- Use Case: Best for demolition work, cutting pipes flush with a wall, or reaching tight spots where a larger saw won’t fit. It is not ideal for precision work.
Angle Grinders with Cutting Discs
While technically a grinder, an angle grinder with a thin cut-off wheel acts much like a handheld abrasive saw.
- Use Case: Quick, rough cuts on sheet metal or small rods when portability is essential.
- Warning: This method creates intense heat and a lot of sparks. It is the least precise method listed here.
Fathoming Blade Choices: The Key to Success
No matter what saw you choose, the blade determines the cut quality. Using the wrong blade causes overheating, dulling, or blade breakage. This is especially true when discussing saw blades for cutting steel, which is a very hard material.
Blade Materials
Modern saw blades for cutting steel and other metals come in a few main types:
- High-Speed Steel (HSS): Good for softer metals like aluminum or thin steel. They are flexible.
- Bi-Metal: These combine a flexible alloy body with HSS teeth welded on top. They offer great strength and resistance to shattering. They are the go-to choice for general-purpose metal cutting.
- Carbide-Tipped: Used primarily in dry-cut metal chop saws. Tungsten carbide tips stay sharp much longer, especially when cutting steel frequently.
TPI and Kerf Explained
We touched on TPI (Teeth Per Inch) earlier, but it is worth repeating:
- High TPI: Slower cut speed, smoother finish, best for thin materials.
- Low TPI: Faster cut speed, rougher finish, best for thick stock.
Kerf is the width of the cut the blade makes. A thinner kerf removes less material. This saves energy but means the blade must be stronger to avoid breaking.
Comparing Saw Methods: Plasma Cutter vs Metal Saw
Many DIYers wonder if a plasma cutter vs metal saw is a better choice. Both cut metal, but they work very differently and suit different needs.
| Feature | Metal Saw (e.g., Chop Saw) | Plasma Cutter |
|---|---|---|
| Method | Mechanical removal via teeth/abrasion | Uses superheated, ionized gas (plasma) |
| Cut Speed | Medium to Fast | Very Fast |
| Cut Quality | Excellent for straight, clean edges | Good, but often requires cleanup (dross) |
| Thickness Limit | Limited by blade strength (usually up to 1/2″ thick steel easily) | Can cut very thick plate metal (1″ or more) |
| Heat Affected Zone (HAZ) | Small to Medium | Moderate (localized melting) |
| Cost | Low to High (tool cost varies widely) | High (requires specialized equipment and air source) |
| Best For | Creating precise joints, framing, non-ferrous metals | Rapidly cutting heavy plate, demolition, curved cuts |
If your primary goal is making perfect, repeatable square cuts for fabrication, a metal saw is often easier and cheaper to start with. Plasma cutters are for heavy-duty, high-speed cutting where edge smoothness is secondary to speed.
Step-by-Step Guide to Cutting Metal with a Saw
Whether you use a portable metal cutting saw or a stationary unit, the basic procedure for cutting metal with a saw remains similar. Safety comes first, always.
Preparation and Safety First
- Wear Safety Gear: Always use safety glasses (or a full face shield). Wear sturdy gloves, ear protection (for power tools), and long sleeves to protect against sparks and sharp edges.
- Secure the Material: Metal must not move during the cut. Use clamps or heavy-duty vices. If the metal shifts, the blade can bind, which can throw sparks or damage the tool.
- Lubrication (When Needed): For softer metals like aluminum or stainless steel, or for slow manual cuts, apply cutting fluid or wax to the blade path. This lowers friction and keeps the blade cool. Note: Dry-cut chop saws are designed not to need lubrication.
- Check the Blade: Ensure the blade is the right type (material and TPI) for the metal you are cutting. Check that the blade is tensioned correctly and spins in the correct direction (for power tools).
The Cutting Process
Using a Power Saw (Chop or Band Saw)
- Mark Your Cut: Use a soapstone marker or permanent marker to draw a clear line where you need to cut.
- Position the Material: Place the metal firmly against the fence or base plate.
- Start the Tool: Let power saws reach full speed before contacting the metal.
- Apply Steady, Slow Pressure: Let the teeth do the work. Pushing too hard causes the teeth to rub instead of cut. This overheats the blade and dulls it quickly. For a chop saw for metal, lower the blade slowly and smoothly.
- Cool Down: After the cut is finished, lift the blade away and let the tool stop completely before removing the cut piece.
Using a Hacksaw
- Grip Firmly: Hold the handle firmly. Place your other hand near the front of the frame for guidance.
- Use Long Strokes: Use the full length of the blade. Short, choppy strokes only dull the teeth.
- Push, Don’t Pull: Apply most of your cutting pressure on the forward (push) stroke. The return (pull) stroke should be light, just enough to guide the saw.
Selecting the Right Saw for Common DIY Tasks
Different DIY projects require different levels of speed and precision. Here is a quick guide to matching the tool to the job.
Task 1: Cutting Thin Steel Tubing for a Gate Frame
- Best Choice: Chop saw for metal with a carbide-tipped blade.
- Why: This provides fast, repeatable, square cuts needed for strong welded joints. A band saw would also work well but might be slower.
Task 2: Trimming Rebar or Old Bolts in Place
- Best Choice: Reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade or an angle grinder.
- Why: You need a tool that can get into awkward spots without moving the whole structure. Precision is not the main concern.
Task 3: Cutting Aluminum Window Frames
- Best Choice: A standard band saw for metal or a specific metal-cutting circular saw attachment.
- Why: Aluminum is soft and gummy. It gums up abrasive wheels quickly. A sharp, low-TPI blade on a band saw cools the material well and prevents gouging.
Task 4: Cutting Thick Steel Channel for Shelving Supports
- Best Choice: A heavy-duty abrasive saw for metal or a large stationary band saw.
- Why: Thick, hard material requires brute force. The abrasive saw will win on speed, while the heavy band saw will offer better edge quality if time allows.
Maintaining Your Metal Cutting Tools
Proper maintenance extends the life of your saws and blades significantly.
Blade Care
- Clean Blades: After cutting sticky materials like aluminum, wipe the blade with a rag dampened with mineral spirits to remove residue.
- Storage: Store blades flat or hanging. Do not let them bang around in a toolbox where teeth can chip.
- Replace When Dull: If you have to push hard, or if the cutting action feels rough or sounds squeaky, change the blade. A dull blade stresses the motor of your power tools for cutting metal.
Saw Maintenance
- Keep it Cool: For abrasive saws, ensure the motor vents are clear of dust.
- Lubrication: Check the manual for required lubrication points on larger saws, like the band saw for metal.
- Clean the Base: Remove metal shavings and dust from the base plate and fence regularly. These bits can interfere with accurate material placement.
Deciphering Different Metals and Saw Needs
Not all metal cuts the same way. Steel behaves differently than copper or aluminum.
Cutting Ferrous Metals (Steel, Iron)
Steel requires tough blades. You need high TPI for thin steel and durable carbide tips for structural steel. Heat is the biggest enemy here. Use cutting fluid or cool-cut methods whenever possible.
Cutting Non-Ferrous Metals (Aluminum, Copper, Brass)
These metals are much softer. They tend to weld themselves onto the blade teeth, causing a build-up called “galling.”
- Blade Choice: Use blades with fewer teeth (lower TPI).
- Lubrication: Always use a lubricant (wax or fluid) when cutting aluminum to prevent it from sticking to the blade.
If you use a circular saw for aluminum, you must use a blade designed specifically for it—one with a high tooth count and a positive hook angle. Do not use a standard wood-cutting blade.
Quick Answers and Tips for Smooth Cuts
Here are some immediate answers for common issues when cutting metal with a saw.
Can I use a wood saw blade on metal?
No, not safely or effectively. Wood blades have large gullets and a very aggressive tooth pattern designed to eject wood chips. If used on metal, they will either snap immediately or quickly dull and overheat, causing terrible cuts and potential injury. You need saw blades for cutting steel or bi-metal blades for any metal.
How do I keep the cut cool?
Use a wet cutting method if your saw allows it (like some stationary band saws). For portable or abrasive saws, reduce your feed rate. Slowing down gives the blade time to dissipate heat. Apply cutting wax frequently.
What is the best way to cut a hole in sheet metal?
For large holes, use a hole saw with an arbor designed for metal. For smaller holes in thinner metal, a drill press with a good metal bit is best. If using a portable saw, you can score the line with a scribe and use a jigsaw (with a metal blade) for curved cuts.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Is a hacksaw faster than a power tool for metal cutting?
A: Generally, no. A power tool, like a chop saw for metal or a band saw for metal, will be significantly faster, especially on thicker stock. A hacksaw is only faster if you need to set up a power saw, which takes time.
Q: Do I need special blades for stainless steel?
A: Yes. Stainless steel work-hardens as you cut it. You need very tough blades, usually bi-metal or carbide-tipped, with a medium TPI (around 18 TPI). Keep the speed slow and use lubricant to manage the heat and prevent the metal from getting harder during the cut.
Q: How do I prevent the metal from vibrating while cutting?
A: Vibration happens when the blade speed is too high or the material isn’t clamped tightly. For a portable metal cutting saw, ensure your clamps are tight. If using a band saw, check your blade tension. If the cut is too slow, the blade can chatter. Balance speed and clamping force for the smoothest results.
Q: Can I cut aluminum with the same blade I use for steel?
A: It is not recommended. Steel blades often have too many teeth (high TPI) for soft aluminum. This causes the aluminum to pack the teeth slots, leading to galling. Use a lower TPI blade or a dedicated aluminum blade for the best results.
Q: What is the main advantage of a band saw over an abrasive saw?
A: The main advantage of a band saw for metal is the cut quality and the reduced heat. Band saws make cooler, cleaner cuts with less material waste and burr buildup compared to the rough, abrasive action of an abrasive saw for metal.