DIY Table Saw Conversion: How To Make A Table Saw From A Circular Saw Guide

Can I make a table saw from a circular saw? Yes, you absolutely can build a functional table saw using a handheld circular saw. This process, often called a DIY table saw conversion, involves securing your circular saw underneath a sturdy tabletop, turning it into a stationary benchtop tool.

Why Convert Your Circular Saw? Making a Benchtop Saw from a Circular Saw

Many woodworkers need the precision of a table saw but lack the space or budget for a full cabinet saw. This is where making a benchtop saw from a circular saw becomes a great solution. It’s cost-effective and perfect for small shops or occasional use. You gain the ability to make long, straight cuts much easier than with a handheld saw alone.

This guide will walk you through the steps needed for your homemade table saw setup. We will focus on safety, stability, and accuracy throughout the process of building a table saw from a handheld saw.

Essential Materials and Tools for Your Setup

Before you start, gather everything you need. A successful conversion relies on strong materials and accurate tools.

Material Checklist

Sturdy Table Base/Top: Plywood (at least 3/4 inch thick, or better, MDF for flatness) is ideal. The larger, the better for stability.
Circular Saw: A powerful saw is best. If you are converting a worm drive saw to a table saw, these often offer more torque, which is helpful.
Mounting Hardware: Bolts, washers, and nuts to secure the saw firmly.
Fence Material: Straight aluminum angle or hardwood strips for the rip fence.
Miter Slot Material (Optional but Recommended): Extruded aluminum tracks for a smooth sled.
Blade Guard/Riving Knife Materials: Thin metal or sturdy plastic.

Tool List

Drill and various bits
Jigsaw or router (for cutting the saw opening)
Screwdriver set
Measuring tape and square
Clamps
Safety gear (goggles, dust mask)

Step 1: Planning Your Homemade Table Saw Setup

Good planning prevents major headaches later. You need to decide how the saw will attach and how the blade will pass through the table.

Determining Blade Height and Depth of Cut

The blade height adjustment on a true table saw is vital. Since a handheld saw usually only adjusts its depth, you must choose a fixed height or devise a way to move the saw up and down beneath the table.

Fixed Height: The easiest method. Set the blade depth just slightly above the material thickness. This means you sacrifice variable depth control.
Adjustable Height: This is complex. It requires mounting a circular saw under a table using a mechanism that allows vertical movement, like slotted brackets or a sliding track system. For beginners, start with a fixed height setup.

Designing the Tabletop Opening

The hole in the table must be precise. It needs to accommodate the largest blade you plan to use, plus a small gap for safety.

Blade Kerf Allowance: Make the hole just big enough for the blade and the arbor nut. Too large a hole reduces table rigidity and increases the risk of small pieces falling into the motor housing.
Blade Change Access: You must be able to reach the arbor nut to change blades. Plan for an access panel or ensure the saw can be easily lowered or tilted out from below.

Step 2: Constructing the Table and Mounting the Saw

Stability is the backbone of any good DIY table saw conversion. A flimsy table leads to inaccurate cuts and danger.

Creating the Table Surface

Use high-quality, flat material. MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard) is excellent because it resists warping better than standard plywood for this application.

Cut the tabletop to a generous size, perhaps 30 inches by 48 inches, depending on your workspace.
Build a sturdy frame underneath using 2×4 lumber. This frame supports the top and provides structure for attaching legs or securing the entire unit to sawhorses.

The Art of Attaching a Circular Saw to a Table

This is the core of building a table saw from a handheld saw. You need to secure the saw so it cannot move, vibrate, or shift during operation.

The Permanent Mount Method (Fixed Height)

This method is common for a simple making a benchtop saw from a circular saw project.

Place the saw upside down on the bottom of your tabletop, aligning the blade guard so it clears the opening you plan to cut.
Mark the locations for mounting screws, making sure they hit solid plastic or metal housing on the saw—avoid soft plastic areas.
Drill pilot holes from the bottom up through the table and into the saw body.
Use heavy-duty bolts, washers, and locking nuts to secure the saw tightly to the table bottom. The saw must not wobble.

Adapting for Worm Drive Saws

If you are converting a worm drive saw to a table saw, note that these saws are often heavier and have their motors positioned differently. Ensure the mounting bolts go through the thickest part of the gearbox housing for maximum strength.

Cutting the Blade Opening

After the saw is mounted:

From the top side of the table, use a long nail or center punch to mark the exact center of the blade.
Attach the saw’s shoe (the base plate) securely to the table bottom.
Use the saw’s own blade or a router with a template following the blade guard outline. If using a router, create a template that matches the necessary opening size.
Safety Note: Cut the opening slightly larger than the blade guard housing but keep the clearance around the blade itself minimal (1/8 inch gap total).

Step 3: Enhancing Functionality – Fences and Miter Slots

A circular saw attached to a board is just a glorified clamp. To make it a true table saw substitute, you need guides for accurate cuts.

Building a Circular Saw Ripping Guide (The Fence)

The fence keeps your workpieces straight when making long rip cuts. Accuracy here is crucial.

Measure the distance from the blade’s edge to the edge of your saw’s shoe plate where it rests on the table. This is your baseline measurement.
Build a long, perfectly straight fence rail. Using two pieces of solid hardwood bolted together (ensuring the face touching the wood is straight) works well.
The fence must slide parallel to the blade. You need a secure locking system. Use large clamps on both ends of the fence rails, or build T-slots into the tabletop to secure the fence rails firmly.
Crucially, the fence must be perfectly square (90 degrees) to the blade. Use a reliable framing square to check this multiple times. This creates your primary circular saw ripping guide.

Adding Miter Slots for Accuracy

For making angled cuts (crosscuts), you need miter slots, just like a real table saw. This allows you to use a crosscut sled for circular saw operations.

Install T-track or brass miter channels into the tabletop surface, parallel to each other, near the blade opening.
These slots guide a custom-built crosscut sled.

Step 4: Creating the Crosscut Sled

A dedicated sled dramatically improves safety and accuracy for crosscuts on your homemade table saw setup.

Designing and Building the Sled

A good sled has two runners that sit snugly inside your newly installed miter slots, ensuring zero side-to-side play.

Runners: Cut two strips of hard plastic or dense wood that fit snugly into the miter slots. Glue and screw these runners onto the base of your sled deck.
Sled Deck: This is the main surface that holds your workpiece. It must be perfectly square to the runners.
The Fence (Sled Face): Attach a perfectly straight piece of wood (the face) to the sled deck at a true 90-degree angle relative to the blade. This face pushes the workpiece across the blade.

Sled Setup and Blade Height

When using the sled, the blade height must be set correctly. Ideally, the blade should protrude about 1/8 to 1/4 inch above the material you are cutting.

Procedure: Place the sled on the runners. Place a scrap piece of wood on the sled face. Make a test cut. If the sled moves laterally during the cut, you need tighter runners or better slot installation.

Step 5: Safety Features – Guards and Riving Knives

Safety cannot be overlooked when building a table saw from a handheld saw. Handheld saws are not designed to be mounted flat against a table surface.

Blade Guard Integration

Most circular saws have built-in retractable blade guards. When you mount the saw upside down, this guard often jams or rests open.

Modification: You must address this. Some builders remove the guard entirely (highly discouraged) or rig a simple fixed guard made of clear plastic or metal that covers the upper portion of the blade when it passes through the table surface.

The Riving Knife Substitute

A riving knife prevents the material from pinching the back of the blade, which causes dangerous kickback. Your stock saw does not have one mounted correctly for this orientation.

Creating a Substitute: You can fabricate a simple, thin steel plate to act as a riving knife. This plate must be mounted directly behind the blade, secured to the table structure, and remain exactly the thickness of the blade kerf. It needs to be rigid enough not to bend upon contact with wood.

Dust Collection

Because the saw motor is now enclosed underneath the table, dust collection is crucial.

Drill several holes into the saw housing (away from electrical components) underneath the table.
Attach a hose or shop vacuum intake near the motor housing to pull out fine dust.

Advanced Considerations: Making Adjustments Possible

For a more capable DIY table saw conversion, you might need rudimentary adjustment mechanisms.

Trimming the Blade Height

If you want to change the blade depth without removing the saw entirely:

Create a large access hatch on the bottom of the table frame, directly under the saw motor.
Use the saw’s built-in depth adjustment lever (if accessible). If the lever is hard to reach, you may need to build a linkage system using rods or cables to control the depth lever from the outside of the saw frame.

Bevel Adjustments

Circular saws usually have a bevel adjustment for angled cuts. This adjustment must be made before you start cutting, as adjusting it mid-project is impossible unless you devise a very complex tilting mechanism.

Procedure: Set your desired bevel angle on the saw before mounting it or securing the access hatch. Mark the angle setting clearly on the outside of the saw body so you can return to it later.

Comparing the DIY Setup to a Commercial Benchtop Saw

While effective, this homemade table saw setup has limitations compared to a purpose-built machine.

Feature	DIY Conversion (Circular Saw)	Commercial Benchtop Saw
Blade Height Adjustment	Manual, difficult, often fixed.	Quick lever or knob system.
Riving Knife	Must be fabricated and added manually.	Integrated safety feature.
Fence System	Must be built and squared from scratch.	Pre-calibrated fence rails.
Stability	Depends entirely on table quality and mounting.	Engineered for low vibration.
Arbor Size	Limited by the stock saw arbor.	Standardized arbor for easy blade swapping.

Finalizing Your Project: Testing and Calibration

Never skip the testing phase. Safety and accuracy depend on a thorough check.

Initial Power Test

With the blade installed, plug in the saw but keep the blade guard clear of the table opening.
Turn the saw on and let it reach full speed. Check for excessive vibration. If vibration is high, the saw mounting is loose, or the blade is unbalanced.
Turn it off and allow the blade to stop completely.

Calibration Tests

Rip Test: Set the fence parallel to the blade. Take a long piece of scrap wood. Measure the width before the blade and after the blade. The measurements must match perfectly. Adjust the fence until they match.
Crosscut Test: Use your sled. Cut a piece of wood to exactly 12 inches long. Measure the remaining piece. If the piece you cut off is exactly 12 inches, your crosscut sled for circular saw is accurate.

Finishing Touches

To improve performance, consider applying a thin coat of paste wax to the tabletop surface around the blade. This reduces friction, making it easier to push boards through the cut, similar to a commercial table.

This DIY table saw conversion provides a powerful, budget-friendly cutting station, allowing you to execute rips and crosscuts with far greater control than using a handheld saw freehand. Enjoy the satisfaction of building a table saw from a handheld saw!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Circular Saw Table Conversions

Q1: Is it safe to mount a circular saw upside down under a table?

While it is mechanically possible, it carries inherent risks because the saw was not designed for this orientation. The main dangers are kickback (due to lack of a proper riving knife) and motor heat buildup since the airflow might be restricted beneath the table. Extreme care must be taken in building safety features like guards and ensuring excellent ventilation.

Q2: What is the best type of circular saw for this conversion?

A saw with a sturdy metal base plate (shoe) works best for secure attaching a circular saw to a table. Many builders prefer sidewinder saws over worm drive saws due to size, but worm drive saws often offer higher torque, which is useful if you plan on cutting thick hardwoods.

Q3: How do I achieve accurate rip cuts without a commercial fence?

Accuracy comes from building a fence rail system that is perfectly square to the blade. Use heavy, flat hardwood for the fence face and secure the rails to the table base using robust clamping mechanisms or T-tracks that prevent any lateral movement during the cut. Precision measurement is key here.

Q4: Can I use a cheap or old circular saw for this project?

It is highly recommended to use a newer, powerful saw with good blade control. Cheap saws often have plastic gears or weak motors that can fail quickly under the stress of constant, stationary cutting. If you are converting a worm drive saw to a table, make sure it is in excellent working order before mounting it.

Q5: How can I adjust the blade depth if I use the fixed mount method?

If you choose the fixed height method, depth adjustment requires you to unbolt the saw from the table, adjust the depth setting on the saw itself, and then remount it. This is why many experienced builders attempt to find a way to access the saw’s depth lever from below the table, even if it adds complexity to the initial build.